Istanbul had been on my travel list for a long time - despite the amusing They Might Be Giants cover song (that's right - try using Google to find the original). Her location and her almost four thousand year old history of straddling two continents has always fascinated me.

I was shocked at the state of affairs. The exchange rate was abysmal for the locals when compared to the USD. The current Administration (and our own) were bickering. The conflict with its current neighbors was escalating at the time. It was nothing new for this neck of the proverbial woods - but it was tougher than I expected.

That being said - the patriotism and the religiosity were also very fervent and on display. I quit counting the number of mosques - and chapels - I could see at any one time. Turkish flags flew EVERYWHERE - with and without Atatürk's face plastered on them.

That coffee, though. And the people.

It's complicated. I know...